Imagine a crumpled metal canister or an ordinary metal drum painted in signature orange and adorned with the iconic Hermès horse-and-carriage logo.
A gallery sells this item as a pop-art piece for a hefty price tag. When the fashion empire files a lawsuit, the art dealers simply shrug: “Don’t you get it? This is freedom of expression! It’s parody and art!”
A Paris court did not accept this line of reasoning and issued a tough ruling in favor of the fashion house.
The Core of the Conflict: Luxury vs. Pop Art
The gallery and online store Le Bidon français displayed and sold household items—wooden trays, fire extinguishers, and crumpled tin cans—decorated with recognizable Hermès insignia.

Source: https://ipkitten.blogspot.com/2026/07/hermes-on-dented-can-french-court.html
The luxury brand Hermès, which holds registered trademark rights for a wide range of goods (including containers and trays), was outraged by this commercial usage and filed a lawsuit alleging trademark infringement and unfair competition.
In response, the gallery built its defense on three arguments:
-
It is a parody: Applying a luxury logo to “absurd” and cheap objects serves as an ironic statement.
-
There is no confusion: Buyers fully understand that a tin can is not an official Hermès product.
-
Protection of art: Trademark rights should not restrict freedom of artistic expression.
The Court’s Verdict: Free Speech Doesn’t Cover the Hype
The court determined this to be a case of “double identity”: identical marks were used on identical or similar categories of goods. Under these conditions, the brand does not even need to prove that consumers were misled—infringement is established automatically.
But why did the freedom of art defense fail?
The Paris court emphasized that to invoke freedom of artistic expression, activities must conform to honest commercial practices. The gallery, however, went far beyond “pure art”:
-
It sold products featuring the brand’s logos in its commercial store.
-
It used the Hermès name in product titles and descriptions.
-
It promoted the art objects on social media using the hashtag #hermes.
The court concluded that the gallery deliberately sought to evoke an association with the luxury brand in buyers’ minds, parasitizing Hermès’s reputation and prestige.
Where Is the Line Between Andy Warhol and Plain Plagiarism?
Using popular brands in art is nothing new (think Campbell’s soup cans in Andy Warhol’s works). However, legally speaking, there is a fundamental difference.
To use someone else’s brand as an art object without permission, an artist must clearly explain the artistic purpose: what specific idea, critique, or social commentary (such as a critique of overconsumerism) the work conveys, and why that specific mark was necessary to achieve it.
In this case, Le Bidon gallery simply failed to explain to the court what profound artistic meaning emerges from placing the Hermès logo on a wooden tray or a crumpled can. Without a convincing aesthetic manifesto, it looked like standard logo copying done merely to inflate the price tag.
Founder of Research & Patent group Intectica, author of patent algorithms for solving problems in the pharmaceutical industry, patent attorney certified in all intellectual property objects (Patents, Design, TM), with education in chemistry and law, chief expert of the patent institution of Ukraine UKRPATENT (1997-2004). Member of international organizations, including ECTA, PTMG, UAM, lecturer and blogger.